BEFORE GEARS AND GPS: THE 1953 ADANA–ISTANBUL BICYCLE TOUR

I first heard about veteran cyclist, traveler, and mountaineer Muzaffer Erol Gez’s 1953 Adana–Istanbul Bicycle Tour during a visit to his home on the Hacgediği Plateau in 2003. As a bicycle enthusiast, I can still remember the excitement I felt that day. Almost nobody knew about this journey, and over time it had largely been forgotten.

In 2010, I visited him again and listened once more to his memories. This time, my goal was to share this little-known cycling adventure with Türkiye’s cycling community.

As always, Muzaffer Hocam spoke about the tour with great modesty, but I never forgot either the journey or the photographs. The story you are about to read, together with the images you will see, are documentary traces of that remarkable ride.

During our conversation, he handed me the photographs of what may be the oldest documented bicycle tour in Türkiye and said:

"I suppose young cyclists might enjoy this tour and show some interest in it."

I replied:

"Muzaffer Hocam, this story will be a milestone for cyclists."

Whether I was right or not, I leave for you to decide.

The 1953 Adana–Istanbul Bicycle Tour

In the Türkiye of the early 1950s, motor vehicles were still relatively rare while bicycles were a common means of transportation. Five young men living in Adana dreamed of cycling all the way to Istanbul.

For various reasons, only two remained committed to the plan. Despite obstacles and difficulties, they decided to set off on the adventure.

One was 19-year-old Muzaffer Erol Gez.

The other was his friend, İlhan Akpınar.

Like most young men of the era, they already owned bicycles. Muzaffer rode a Rudge, while İlhan rode a Humber. They were considered prestigious bicycles at the time, though naturally quite heavy by modern standards.

To reduce weight, they removed the mudguards and chain guards.

Gears?

"What are those?"

With large pannier bags attached to their bicycles, a change of clothes, and sunglasses, they looked every bit like bicycle tourists.

Unfortunately, they chose one of the harshest seasons imaginable.

It was August, when the Çukurova Plain and the Konya Plain are scorched by intense summer heat.

They wore cork pith helmets to protect themselves from the sun and carried water bottles for the journey. Intercity roads were dusty, unpaved, and often little more than gravel tracks. Motor vehicles were so scarce that ten or fifteen minutes could pass between one vehicle and the next.

Whenever they reached a village, they would stop at the local coffeehouse, rest, and chat with villagers.

A few kilometers before Pozantı, while descending a hill, İlhan lost control of his bicycle and crashed. He injured his knee and bent a wheel rim badly enough that they could not repair it themselves.

They managed to reach Pozantı, where both rider and bicycle received treatment.

The accident was not enough to stop them.

They continued.

Taurus Mountains – Gülek Pass

Accommodation was another challenge.

Hotels?

"What are those?"

Whenever they found a suitable location, they pitched a homemade tent constructed with thick wooden poles and spent the night there.

The tent collapsed during the first serious windstorm they encountered and never looked quite the same afterward.

Fortunately, they had remembered to bring a kerosene lantern for lighting.

Taurus Mountains – Damlama Area

They never suffered from hunger or thirst, always keeping their food supplies replenished. They also carried a large thermos.

Streams along the route served for washing and cleaning.

Taurus Mountains – Şekerpınar Area, Akkale Bridge

Despite everything, the journey was going well.

So why not visit Konya too?

They left the main route and headed toward Konya via Ereğli. The relentless sun nearly wore them down.

One rider injured.

Two cyclists sunburned and exhausted.

Yet still happy.

Somewhere on the road to Konya

Every patch of shade became an opportunity to rest.

Another place on the road to Konya

Konya – Alaaddin Hill

Eventually, they reached Konya.

There, their camera broke down. Unable to have it repaired, they continued carrying both the damaged camera and its tripod.

Crossing Ankara and the Bolu Mountains, they finally arrived in Istanbul.

They were overjoyed.

Despite every difficulty, they had reached their goal.

The adventure lasted 17 days.

At the time, it attracted almost no attention and was soon forgotten.

In Istanbul, they loaded their bicycles onto the roof rack of a bus and returned to Adana.

Years later, while serving in the military, Muzaffer’s commander heard about the journey and jokingly asked:

"Son, where were you when common sense was being handed out?"

Before and after the Adana–Istanbul tour, Muzaffer Erol Gez cycled throughout the villages, towns, and districts of Kayseri, where he later lived. He also completed a ride from Kayseri to Nevşehir.

In 1955, he sold his bicycle and bought a Jawa motorcycle, with which he completed two tours of Türkiye.

Soon afterward began the mountaineering career that continues to this day.

Among many achievements, he has climbed Mount Ararat 27 times and once spent three days and three nights on its summit during a winter ascent as part of a medical research project.

Dear cycling friends,

This is the story of the 1953 Adana–Istanbul Bicycle Tour that I wanted to share with you.

I hope it inspires you as much as it inspired me.

At the end of our conversation, Muzaffer Hocam said something I will never forget:

"If I had to travel around the world today, I would still do it by bicycle."

May your roads be open and your pedals always strong.

Ahmet Salih ÖzenirPresident, Mersin Bicycle Travelers AssociationMay 2010

(Revised in July 2017)

Editor's Note: Muzaffer Erol Gez is remembered not only as a pioneering bicycle traveler but also as one of the distinguished figures in the history of Turkish mountaineering.